Castelão
A grape guide to this Portuguese grape
Castelão is one of the most widely planted grapes throughout Portugal. However, the best examples of it come from the Península de Setúbal. Specifically the sub-region of Palmela (see map above). Where there are hot and dry sandy soils which help this grape thrive to its full potential. Castelão is a natural cross between Alfrocheiro and Mourisco Branco, two native Portuguese grapes. Don’t worry if you don’t know those grapes. I haven’t done a grape guide for those yet- but eventually I will!
While you may not have heard of this grape, it is truly an ancient grape. In fact it was first written about in 1531. Now you have a fun fact to tell people when you serve this grape.
There is a common misconception that this grape is also called Periquita. But from what I have gathered, it is a brand name for a wine made from Castelão grape- but sometimes is a blend. Jose Maria de Fonseca created Periquita, a wine made from the Castelão grape in 1870. The wine became an instant success and is believed to be what causes the confusion between the names. Locals will still call it Periquita, but that is not an actual synonym for Castelão.
Castelão thrives in warm climates and in sandy or clay-rich soils. The grape is known for its resilience in adapting to tough conditions (sounds kind of like myself). On top of that it is resistant to many diseases. This makes it a reliable choice for winemakers. Castelão often is part of red wine blends, including Port, but also shines on its own. It is often aged in oak. But in central Portugal, the wines will be lighter, fruitier, and for early drinking.
It’s a really lovely grape- it is hard to find as a varietal wine in the States, but if you are willing to spend money on shipping, or live near Portugalia Marketplace outside of Boston you’ll be fine in finding some.
A few bottles to try
FitaPreta Vinhos Tinto de Castelao 2021
Quinta de Chocapalha Castelao Red 2020
Quinta da Alorna Castelão Red 2020
Casa da Atela Castelão Rosé Wine House 2021
Quinta do Piloto Family Collection Red 2019
José Maria da Fonseca Periquita Clássico Red 2014
Well, this is another coincidence! I met some of the folks from José Maria da Fonseca when I was at the London Wine Fair last year. And Setúbal is on the shortlist of places we might go to spend a few weeks in March/April. I'm debating between that an Alentejo (as you know). Either way, I feel sure there is a bottle of Castelão in my future!
Love this grape! We've spent some time in Palmela and since it's just a short drive for us, we're hoping to organize a little wine tasting excursion in that area. There's a lovely Pousada in Palmela that was once a convent. It overlooks the entire region! - CW